What a jewel box of treasures, this small Danish city is! While David worked, I toured on my own. And maybe it was because I had total freedom to do and see whatever I liked, or maybe it was the beautiful city, but I had the best time.
Here are the links!
We stayed at the Copenhagen Island, which was just south of the city center on the harbor. Can't say I'd stay here again -- first the wifi in our room was spotty. Which at first I didn't think I'd mind, but got annoying when I was looking up museum times for the next day, and trying to upload photos. Also, we were in a office-populated area and next to the big mall, so there wasn't a lot of nearby restaurant options. Though, in their favor, the breakfast buffet was included and quite good. The Marriot was just a few blocks north and would have been better located.
Sunday
We walked around and explored. We love to get the lay of the land. There's a huge amusement park in the middle of the city called Tivoli right next to the tall city hall, so using those two landmarks, along with the harbor that runs to the east of the city, it's pretty easy to orient yourself, so you never really get lost.
We had lunch at Wagamama, a restaurant we generally find anywhere we are and it's always good. Especially in the chilly early-winter days in Denmark -- where we didn't see the sun once.
For dinner, we at at Sticks and Sushi to celebrate Dave's birthday. It was delicious and fresh. And not too far from our hotel.
Monday
Most museums are closed on Mondays, so my options were limited. I choose the Danish Architecture Center (DAK) and wasn't very impressed. Neat building but the presentations were not very thorough. Though I got some good information. Like did you know Danish people spend more on home furnishing and decor than any other country? Cool. The WiFi signal was great and it was warm with great views, so I hung out for awhile formulating plans.
I then walked over to the Black Diamond, the Royal Danish Library, and bought my ticket for the Monday at 3pm tour. It's the only one they do all week. I walked around a bit and even sat in the Reading Room for a few minutes updating my journal and listening to a podcast.
I walked around a little, got a Potato Tornado for "lunch" from a street Christmas Market and walked back to be ready for the tour. Other than the 6th floor balcony that scared the HELL out of me, it was a fun tour with lots of information about the new buildings' architecture and history of the old library, which is tucked just behind the Black Diamond. Would recommend the tour.
After meeting back at the hotel, Dave and I went to eat at Gorilla in an old meat processing area that's now a cool, urban renewal project. The cocktails were D-licious. And we ordered most of their veggie apps that sounded too good to be skipped. And they were YUM. I would have definitely went back and eaten there again, if we had the time.
Tuesday
Yay! Museums are open again. I walked all the way to the west side of the city to hit three major Copenhagen destinations.
The first was the Palm House/Botanic Garden. This attraction could use a little modernization and updating, but I loved it anyway. A gorgeous, historic green house complex full of green plants. On a dreary day, it was just perfect. Not crowded and easy to self-tour, I especially loved seeing the plants I have at home -- Monsteras, figs, ferns and African violets -- growing BIG. Would recommend, especially if you love plants.
Next I headed just a bit north to the SMK or Statens Museum for Kunst, the traditional fine arts gallery. First, when you enter it's unexpected to be in such a modern space, when you're expecting classical columns and all the marble, trimmings of a classic building. Even the staircase was modern. Second, I was SUPER LUCKY to stumble upon the Matisse Red Studio exhibit that was simple and impactful. Overall, the main collection was stunning. Lots of Scandi artists I wasn't familiar with. And I was BLOWN AWAY by the room featuring Cornelius Norbertus Gijsberchts, who did realistic cabinet and letter board paintings. Amazing. Also, I want to mention the wall colors were all extraordinary. Well-kept, tended collection and museum. A+!
I ate lunch in the SMK cafe, which was modern and light-filled and lovely. My lunch of focaccia with roasted kale was yummy. With a latte on the side to keep up my energy.
Last, I went over to the Rosenborg Castle, just across the street. An absolutely magical Dutch Renaissance CASTLE once the residence of the royal family, it was quickly changed to a showhouse/storage for all the royal items and gifts. The royals would host parties and show-off their cool stuff there, after more modern castles were built nearby. It's indescribable all the items and rooms and furnishings and small treasures and paintings and tapestries that are just everywhere. Plus, the building itself from 1630s ... amazing. The royal crown jewels are kept in the basement and there are military guys, with guns, walking around the grounds, just to add to the whole experience. Must see!
For dinner, David and I ate at a fish place called Kodbyns Fiskbar with his coworkers Sisa and Casper in that same cool, urban renewal area. Fish and chips were delicious. And I ate more muscles than I have in years.
Wednesday
I wasn't sure how I was going to top Tuesday's museums, but then I walked into the Glyptoteket and it BLEW MY MIND. Started by the heirs to the Carlsberg Beer fortune, you can absolutely see the loving touch of an art connoisseur in this collection. It's amazing. Personal. Wide-spanning, from the Egyptian and Etruscan artifacts to the statuary to the Impressionism in the attic. It's all here and all amazing and all purposefully picked and placed. The colosseum-like room to the modern wing with it's tall white pillars to the tear-jerking special exhibit of Degas' 14-Year-Old Dancer getting a new tutu. If I could, I'd live in this building. I got coffee and a cookie for "lunch" and sat in the atrium/winter garden and just wished to stay there for another week. What a treasure box of wonders. For museum lovers, this is an absolute must. LOVED it.
I was so in love with it, I didn't really know what to do afterwards. So I wandered around for a few hours, checking back to the shopping street Dave and I explored on Sunday and walking into shops I missed. I'll try to create a list of shops in another post.
I did finally wander into my last museum which was the National Museum of Denmark, not too far from the Glyptoteket. This place was ... different. After spending time in two very organized, very intentional, very beautiful spaces, the National Museum was a little messy. The Viking exhibit was too moody and dark. While the Humans of the World exhibit didn't have enough of a story throughline. Then there were rooms and rooms of artifacts that were poorly lit, with humming fluorescents, silent, a little scary and a little maze-like. Honestly, I was alone in much of that part, and started fearing for my welfare. I walked fast. I'd recommend, but only if you've done everything else.
Dinner with David was quick ... just a sandwich from the Joe & the Juice at the neighboring mall.
Thursday
My last day. I spent the morning listening to my audiobook and sipping a large latte at a coffeeshop near the hotel with a pretty view. Then I met Dave and his coworkers again at Warpigs Brewhouse in, again, that same cool urban area. The bbq was OK. But it was fun to chat with people, as I've been alone each day. I had lots of questions.
Then I wandered off lunch, going around some areas I had missed. Discovering a new shopping street with a vintage French tableware shop (I wanted to buy everything!). And doing some final shopping for friends and family. We saved room in our suitcases for treasures and I did a lot of purchasing for everyone at home.
We ate dinner at Sticks and Sushi, in a nearby hotel. Fresh salmon from Norway! Delicious.
Friday morning we were on a flight home! Good-bye beautiful Copenhagen. Tak!
(I didn't venture to the harbor where the famous mermaid statue is ... but this one next to the library was close enough.)
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