Let's Get Honest About Paris and Food

When the Baguettes Are Warm!

I'm just going to say it: Paris isn't a foodie destination.

I know, CRAZY right?! But after traveling to a few other European cities, I'm struck by how limited the food options are here in Paris and now I can't unsee it.

But first ...

Yes, you can find French bistros on almost every corner, and some are fantastic and some are so-so (there's honestly no way to tell). So, if you're in the mood for an omelette, a salad or a cheese sandwich (croque) -- and have a few hours to tuck into a nice meal, because service will be traditionally slow -- than, you're all set. (Though, you can't sit outside on the sidewalk terrace unless you want to inhale second-hand smoke. Blah!)

And YES if you just want a delicious baguette sandwich or a pastry, you are in the right city because they are everywhere, and usually delicious. The baguettes and butter here are the best in the world. No competition.

(So, as a tourist, you're all set. But after 11 months ... well.) 

When the Food is So Good!

If you're cooking dinner, maybe you're a decent chef, again, you can get fresh, delicious ingredients to pull together a nice, fresh meal. All GOOD.

However, if you want anything other than French food... not so much.

We're missing breakfast/brunch food, local/fresh/light food, Mexican or South American, the Asian foods are represented, but not always very good and usually very bland. The French, I'm told, like their food bland.

If you want something quick -- not so short as a happy meal but not a meal that will take a few hours of slow service -- nope. Not likely. To be fair, there are a few pockets of these quick meal places, such as Pret a Manger and Cojean, but they are mainly in areas with a large concentration of office buildings (which is rare in a city with few skyscrapers). And no where near the amount you'd find in all the other European cities we've visited. Pret is a French company but we passed one every 10 minutes in London, the nearest one to us is eight metro stops away.

After all the research I did for food in Barcelona and London (and the success I had; the kids loved the food we ate in Spain), I came home ready to find the best restaurants in Paris for weekends -- but there isn't much that ISN'T French cuisine.

First, there are just a few neighborhoods that feature these more progressive restaurants and they are on the other side of Paris. The 11th arrondissement, in particular, is building up a large concentration of restaurants but you have to search and there's normally a long line (no reservations) or advanced reservations needed. And, secondly, the same web searches I did to find those great Barcelona spots came up empty or just a few results. Crazy, right?

I guess I'd had an inkling of this, I was sort-of warned, and some of the parents I've made friends with have agreed, especially if they're from cultures that are under represented or prefer spicy cuisine.

When We're All Waiting for the Check

I can also complain about the service, because it's usually very very slow. Here's what I'm told: The French generally believe that waiters "bothering" the diners at their table is rude. So they won't approach you unless you make eye contact and subtly wave them over. (Never big wave at restaurants, yikes!)

It gets frustrating if you're hungry, the kids are whining and no one has been around. You have to ask for water and bread. And once you're done eating, the waiters are scarce and you could end up sitting around for a long while waiting to ask for your check. (Most French people would see this as a blessing and enjoy the conversation around them but not always -- I see plenty French diners staring off into space waiting.) It's exhausting. Especially with kids.

I can't tell you the number of times one of us leaves the restaurant with the kids to run the nearby errands while the other sticks around waiting for the waiter to show up with the check. It's nuts. And so far, it doesn't happen in other cities we've visited. And it's just the French trying not to be "rude" and "appear to be rushing you out of the restaurant" (I get it) but geez, I find it rude to sit there for 30 minutes without any staff contact. Honestly.

(Sidenote: Though, this slow service is not 100% the case. I can think of several dinner out when our servers were fast and attentive the whole meal.)

Oh ... and let me dispel one other myth. French kids are just as unruly as other children in restaurants. Yes, they do seem to eat with a little less mess and more formality. They're clearly being taught how to eat politely. But, we see them race around restaurants, jump on seats and finally being placated to sit still with a TV show on someone's iPhone. So there.

So, Ok. Whining is officially over.

Still come to Paris. You probably won't notice until the end of the week and you can't handle another bistro meal.



Related posts:
The other whiney post (sorry!)
More Travel-related posts