Italy Trip: All the Details

We had such a great time on our family trip to Italy. It was easy to get around, most Italians speak English or enough to get by. And the weather was phenomenal -- we lucked out there. And the busy season doesn't start until May, so sights weren't mobbed (or as badly as we expected). And gelato. Every day gelato! 

Here's a handy resource page of our Italian trip details and links to the things we did and saw. (I did a lot of research before we left.) I also included one tip for each city and something that made me gasp or get teary. 

FLORENCE
  • We flew into Florence from Paris on Air France (and boy did we get lucky around their strike dates) and grabbed a 22€ cab to our hotel. 
  • We stayed at Palazzo Mannaioni on Via Maffia. We got a suite with a kitchen and two bathrooms (such a luxury). It was clean, updated and perfectly located. From this hotel, everything in Florence was an easy walk. 
  • The whole family ended up getting hair cuts at this hair salon just around the corner from the hotel. They were so friendly and welcoming. And it got us off our feet for a few hours. 
  • I booked a pasta-making class on Airbnb called Pastamania. It was good family fun. At the end, we ate the pasta, with a glass of wine for Dave and I. The girls loved it. 
  • Our favorite meal was the evening after pasta-making in the same restaurant called Vivanda. All "organic don't panic" and local. So tasty!  
  • We also really enjoyed our meal upstairs at the Mercato Centrale. With a food-court feel, we could all get something we liked. We ended up getting veggie burgers, a salad, roasted potatoes and a cheeseburger for Alice. We do love an open market in any city we visit. We also picked up nuts and dried fruit for snacking. 
  • Also near our hotel was a great bakery called Mama's where we stopped for breakfast a few times. Italians aren't big on breakfast (toast and a cappuccino), so this place is geared toward the American tourist. Bagels, French toast, granola with fruit. All so good to fill our bellies before heading out to see the sights. 
  • Here's a Tip: We walked over to the Piazza Pitti one morning and bought Uffizi Gallery tickets, avoiding the longer line at the gallery. (Next time I'll just order them in advance.) 
  • What Made Me Gasp/Cry: The Uffizi was annoying to get into (they really need the guys who redid the Louvre entrance to help them out) but the Botticelli masterpieces upstairs makes it all completely worth it. Birth of Venus was all that I wanted it to be and more.
The Family and the Duomo

VENICE
  • We took the train from Florence to Venice roundtrip in one day; we left around 9 and got on a 7pm train back to Florence. I booked tickets on Italia Rail months in advance, and despite being nervous about our tickets not including our names, it all went smoothly. The train station was a short 10 minute walk from the hotel and the trip took just over two hours. 
  • The Venice train station is amazing. You step out of the building and you're on the Grand Canal! We walked toward the Rialto Market, then to St. Mark's Square and then to the Campo San Barnabas (AKA the Indiana Jones church from The Last Crusade). With stops for pizza and gelatos along the way. We easily saw everything on our list in one day.
  • Gondolas were pretty easy to hail, just find an available driver at one of the many stations around the city. (April is not high season, so we didn't have any trouble.) For 80€ (plus tip) you get a 30 minute trip around the block, ending at where you started. It's all regulated by the city, so there's no haggling or finding the "trustworthy" gondolier. 
  • Here's a tip: Your phone GPS won't be too reliable because Venice is a fantastic maze with no cars and rivers where some roads should be. Because of that, you can't be in a rush to get anywhere. Just figure out the general direction you're going in and go. Try to avoid the crowded streets when you can. It's gorgeous to wander. 
  • What Made Me Gasp/Cry: That gondola ride was so serene and lovely. The girls were so happy. The sun was warm, the views were historic. It was such a perfect family moment.  
A Family Memory For A Lifetime
ROME
  • We left Florence and took the train to Rome for the remaining four days of vacation. Again it went smoothly and the ride was just under two hours. 
  • We got adventurous and decided to take the metro from the train station to our hotel. It was a little hectic, but we managed it. The Rome Metro only has three lines. 
  • Our hotel, Vino e Oli, was lovely and very close to the Metro and Vatican City. It was clean and modern. We loved the modern decor. And the hotel owner was so friendly and offered recommendations for restaurants in the area. 
  • I booked our Roman Forum, Colosseum tour from Through Eternity Tours. I heard good things from a local who takes these tours. And I'm so so so glad we did. The tour guide/historian walked us through the archeological dig sight pointing out buildings and taking us through Roman history. Amazing. This was such a highlight for all of us. The kids were completely enthralled for all three hours. So worth the price. 
  • Our favorite meal was from Il Panino Ingegnoso, this tiny panini place just around the corner from the Pantheon. We gobbled up the very fresh sandwiches.
  • Rome is overall a dirty, unkempt city. And it was disappointingly tough for us to find those small, fresh restaurants we prefer. Chains and tourist-focused places are everywhere. For our next trip, I'm going to do more food research. Especially now that the kids are just starting to expand their tastes.  (Finally!) 
  • Here's a tip: We got in line for St. Peter's by 8:30am! (You can't book advance tickets, unless you do a tour.) The line gets crazy long by 10, but the earlier you go (it opens at 7!) the quicker you get in AND sunrise in the cathedral is ... awww... amazing. So worth it. Oh! And don't forget there's a dress code: no exposed shoulders or shorts/short dresses. We saw them turn away a girl wearing short shorts and a half shirt (as if!). 
  • What Made Me Gasp/Cry: The Pieta in St. Peter's knocked me over. I studied it in art history class but nothing could have prepared me to see this Michelangelo masterpiece in person. The Sistine Chapel also had me choked up. But it's so high up it's hard to take it all in! One more, the Pantheon was so perfect. The coffered ceiling and beautiful marble. Gah! Gorgeous!
Inside St. Peter's
Pro Tip For Italy: Rick Steves is an expert on travel in Italy. I downloaded his app (it's Free!) and some of the Italy-focused tours. I listened to them on the train. Then, read the interesting bits to the kids (all from the app!) when we got to the place. For example, while waiting in line at St. Peter's, I read out the information about the square and what we were going to see inside. Or at St. Mark's square in Venice. And in the Sistine Chapel, too. Wow! An excellent resource! 

Parents Beware: Also, I saw a few folks with little kids in strollers. I can't think of a more stroller-unfriendly city than Florence or Venice. Uneven cobblestones. Multiple bridges over canals. The Roman Forum was terribly uneven. While I do love traveling with kids, I'd highly recommend waiting until your children are good walkers to take them to these cities.

Ahh, Italy. I miss your gelato already. 



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